Dibyendu's Blog: Bali-Dewangunj

If you are interested to see a different type temple of Bengal’s Temple Architecture you have to go to Bali-Dewangunj, in Arambagh Subdivision of Hooghly District.

Bengal’s Temple Architecture mainly based on CHALA (flat roofed) and RATNA (pinnacle) style but the Durga Mandir of Bali-Dewangunj is a rare combination of the two which is a class of its own. A Jorbangla (two charchala combined) temple with Nabaratna (nine pinnacles) designs. The ratnas are also in ridged rekha formation. That means the Bengali architect sought to bring his basic forms together in a new combination.

Bali-Dewangunj is around 82 km by road from Kolkata. One can also avail local train up to Tarakeswar Rly. Station and pick up a bus for Bali-Dewangunj (fare Rs.30/- per head). Get down at Haldarpara after 1 hr and 45 minutes and go through the unwinding village road which leads you to Routpara.

Routpara temple complex has five temples. The Mangalchandi temple will be on the left side of the road. A dilapidated temple which once had a three door entry porch with Tryodash Ratna ( 13 pinnacles). A stone is worshipedas Devi Mangalchandi.Durga Mandir is on the opposite side.

Durga Mandir as discussed earlier is a combination of Jorbangla & Nabaratna style with a three door arched entry porch is remarkably untouched by time. In front of the temple one can see some exquisite terracotta panels such as Bhagirath and Devi Ganga, Devi Ganga feeding Makara (Crocodile) as a child and many others. But above the arched doors there lies a large terracotta panel of Devi Durga which might be largest one in West Bengal flanked with slightly similar panels of Lakshmi and Ganesha on the left and Saraswati and Kartick on the right side. Each of the five panels is surrounded by Stucco work in temple form. The temple is over 200 hundred year old and maintained by West Bengal State Archaeology Department.

The Narayan temple, adjacent one of Durga Mandir is damaged severely. It was a Charchala temple whose only one ratna is survived. The Siva temple, a smaller one is comparatively new. The other temple is known as Dasadurga is almost in ruined condition.

Routpara is also known for its Brass Water pot cottage industry.

If you are interested see more terracotta temples retrace back towards the main road. On the way you will find a double storied Rashmancha along with a small temple and one ruined temple covered with tree roots.

Walking along the main road towards Arambagh, on the right side you will find the ruins of Shiva Kutir, a spectacular mansion with arched gateways and slender columns. The abandoned building is encroached by trees and foliage. Adjacent to Shiva Kutir you will find a huge charchala temple overgrown with trees.