Maluti

Maluti – The story of a temple village

According to history, the story begins around 500 years ago. Sultan of Gaur Allauddin Husain Shah (1495-1525) camped with his entourage adjacent to the village Damra (now in Birbhum District). One morning the pet hawk (Baaj) of his Begum flown away from its stand and she got upset. Worried sultan declared a handsome reward if anyone can catch the bird. A sannyasi (Dandiswami of Kashi Sumeru Moth) also present at that time when the reward was announced. One shepherd boy named Basanta found the bird and handed it over Sultan as guided by the hermit. Rejoiced Sultan announced a huge area of non-tax (Nankar) land as a prize to Basanta.

Basanta became Baj Basanta (for his tryst with Baaj) and started the Nankar Dynasty and set his capital at Damra village. The Sannyasi of Kashi Sumeru Math became the Raj guru of Baj Basanta. After his demise, his son Ramswaha and grandson Joychandra reigned as king. But a fierce battle was fought with the Pathan rulers of Nagar at the time of his great-grandson Rajchandra which costs his life and Damra was captured by the Pathan king. After this episode, the capital was shifted to Moluti. Rajchandra’s son Rakharchandra became the king and his two uncles got the ¼ part of the property and called as SIkir Torof (¼th owner). Later Rakharchandra’s brother Prithiwichandra lives apart from his family known as Madhyam Torof (next to the elder). But how Moluti became a “Temple Town” with 108 temples (out of which only 72 exists). I think there was a competition between the Royal Family members and temples were built. Thus Moluti became a Temple Town. Each section of the Raj Family built the same type of temples and probably by the same Sutradharas (an artisan who built temples). The temples are mainly Shiva temples because the Royal family members were the worshiper of Lord Shiva. But most of the temples are in beaten up condition.

Archaeological Survey of India has taken up a restoration project with the help of Global Heritage Fund. As per Global heritage Fund, there are 12 places in the world where heritage is in danger. Moluti is one of them. Hats off to that man, who single-handedly did this and still concerned about our lost heritage. Thank You, Gopal Das Mukherjee sir.

The terracotta works of the temples are somehow same in type. Mainly depicts the war between Rama and Ravana, Mahisasurmardini (Devi Durga), Krishna Lila etc. There is a Dugadalan but in ramshackle condition.

Apart from temples, Moluti is also famous for the great Kali Sadhaka (seeker) Bamakhyapa who lived here (around 1857) for some days in the temple of Moulikhsa Mata, the village deity. His conch and trident are kept here in a temple.

The village is now situated in Jharkhand and surrounded by two small rivulets (kandar) where stone tools and primitive weapons of Palaeolithic age are found.

How to go: Moluti is 16 km from Rampurhat. Hire a car from Rampurhat and visit Moluti. Enjoy the scenic beauty as well as our heritage

Gopal Das Mukherjee

Stone Weapon: collections of Gopal Das Mukherjee

Dilapidated temples

Moulikhya Mata & Sadhok Bamakhyapa

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Temples under repair

Dashghara

  Dasghara                         

            If you want to see a replica of Kolkata’s Rajbhaban gate, you have to go to Dashghara in Hooghly district. Amidst the lush green Potato field, a red moram road will lead you to the ancestral home of Biswas family. The locality is also known as Biswaspara. A beautiful terracotta temple of late Mughal era, a Dugadalan, an octagonal Rasmancha with slender pillars, a square Dolmancha, a Shiva temple depicts the history of the family’s glorious past. The Pancharatna (Five pinnacles) Gopinath temple is a classic example of artisanship of Bengali Sutradharas (artisans who made terracotta temples).

From late 14^th century, there was a Hindu revival which helps the reformation of popular Bengali cults. Its main impetus came from Mahaprabhu Sri Chaitanya (1486-1533) the exponent of “Gaudiya Vaishnabism”. Nearly all the surviving rich decorated Hindu temple of 16^th and 17^th century are Radha-Krishna temples and Krishnalila (the amorous life of Lord Krishna) was the main subject matter of decoration. The Gopinath temple (1729 A.D) of Dashghara is an example of this form.

The facade of the Pancharatna temple is richly ornate with terracotta carving which depicts the stories of the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and Krisnalila, Nagarsankirtan (wandering about in a town singing holy songs) scene of Gour-Nitai and the social life. Most astonishingly I saw a Mithunmurti (conjugal scene of man &woman) which is rare in this type of temple. The two side walls once enriched with terracotta carvings are now defaced and renovated with cement.

But Biswas family cannot claim all the attraction of Dashghara. Just retrace a few stapes back from Biswaspara and cross the metal road you will see a clock tower.

A famous businessman of Dashghara, Babu Bipin Krishna Roy built with clock tower with an arched gateway in 19^th century which is a lookalike of Rajbhaban. Though the clock has stopped its ticking but it still proclaimed the past glory of Dashghara.  An age old charitable dispensary and a Shiva temple, a weed overgrown garden with marble statues are the other attractions of the place..

How to go: Board on a Tarakeswar local from Howrah  and get down at Tarakeswar. From Tarakeswar bus stand board on a bus for Dashghara. After 12 km bus journey just get down at Bazarpara and  walk along the metal road towards Biswaspara.   

Akalipur:

Birbhum district of West Bengal is the land of Goddess Kalika. So many Sati Peeth (one of the fifty-one places consecrated to the worship of Pārbati after dismemberment and the dispersion of her dead body), Kali shrines and lots of Kali Sadhakas (seeker) lived here. In this holy Birbhum there is a village called Akalipur where one can see the Devi Gujjhya Kalika, a different form of Goddess Kali. 

 The black stone deity sitting on a snake has two hands. She is garlanded with a snake and human skull. Mythology says, once this idol was worshipped by Jarasandha, King of Magadha. 

The curtain rose after so many years when Rani Ahalya Bai Holkar found it from debris and handed it over to Raja Chait Singh of Kashi because Ahalya Bai was a devotee of Lord Shiva. Warren Hastings of East India Company attacked Kashi and looted all the valuables from Chait Singh including this deity and sends it Kolkata via Ganges.

Trekking in Sahayadri -Part - III (Shivneri, Kokudeswar, Naneghat,Jeevdhan fort)

On the next morning we started for Khireswar via Tolar Khind (Khind means pass in Marathi). After around 3 hrs trek we reached the outskirts of Khireswar village from where a jeep drops us at Junnar.
Junnar, mainly famous for its fort Shivneri (2 km from Junnar), where Chattrapati Sivaji (1630-1680), the pride of Maharashtra, was born.  His father Sahoji Bhonsley was a military general under Sultan Adil Shah of Bijapur. Here Sivaji spent his childhood with his mother Jijabai. The fort has total seven doors: Maha Darwaza, Parvangicha Darwaza, Hatti Darwaza, Peer Darwaza, Sipahi Darwaza, Phatak Darwaza and Kulambkat Darwaza. Near Shivaji’s birthplace there is a lake Called Badami Talao. Two under water springs Ganga And Yamuna Tonk are also inside the fort. There is also an Id-Gah.
But the irony of history is that Sivaji never captured this fort where he took his first steps. In 1673 & 1678 he tried to conquer the fort but all were in vein. Till 1716 the fort belonged to the Mughals after that Sahooji Maharaj brought it back to the Marathas.
We visited Shivneri fort and paid our homage to the great Maratha warrior whose fight against the Bijapur and Mughals for “Swatantrata” is written in golden letters in Indian History.
From Junnar we went to Naneghat (2800ft) for Jeevdhan fort via Kokudeswar, an ancient Shiva Temple which is famous in the area.  May be one of the beautiful spot   of Sahaydri, Naneghat has an enchanting beauty. We stayed at Hotel Karan whose owner Subhas Atari is a renowned guide of the area.
Next Morning we proceeded for Jeevdhan. Jeevdhan has its name in the history. One of the descendants of Nijamshahi was imprisoned here by Mughals. Shahaji, the father of Sivaji rescued him and gave him a safe place.  After hearing this news Emperor Shah Jahan busted this rebellion by sending Adil Shah. Shahaji has to surrender the fort along with the custody of the descendant of Nijam to the Mughals.  As the road leads us to the fort through the jungle and rock cut steps. We have ascended around 300 metres from Naneghat when the final assault to the fort came. The rock cut steps were severely damaged and we have to cross the obstacles by fixing a rope.  Much of the fort is collapsed and the ruis are scattered here and there. As we entered the first gate we saw a sculpture Goddess Gajalaxmi. The store room is the only structure which remains intact. The last battle fought here in the year 1818 between the British and the Marathas and the store room is the evidence where tons of grains were burnt as remains the ankle deep ashes is  still  visible here.
 

Amber Mahal/Shivneri

Birth place of Sivaji

Sivaji's Jhula (swing)

Kokudeswar Temple

Jeevdhan Hill

Banar Shila/Jeevdhan

Climbing Jeevdhan fort

Jeevdhan fort entry gate

Store room/Jeevdhan fort

Descending From Jeevdhan

Team with Subhas Atari at Naneghat

Leaving Naneghat

Trekking in Sahayadri- Part-II (Harishchandragad)

From Ratangad we proceed to Harishchandragad by a pickup van. The base village of Harishchandragad is Pachnai. We spent 18th night at Pachnai. On the next morning (19th Feb) we started for our destination. The road leads us to a jungle which is known as Harishchandragad National Park. The road is somehow easy and where there is a problem, the authority has provided a railing for easy accessibility because Harishchandragad is a renowned pilgrim spot. It took 3 hrs to reach at Harishchandragad. We took our shelter in the temple complex. An age old temple of Panchamukhi Shiva with 2-3 small temples with a Yagna Griha are within the complex. The main temple is about 1000 years old. Local story said that Raja Harish Chandra served here as a waterman to a Dom (a class of people who burn dead bodies in the burning ghat). One can see a stone carving where a man with a headband carrying water in front of a small temple nearby. The name Harishchandragad came from there. In the temple complex there is a small Siddha Mahabishnu temple which is having a broken deity and The Bitthal-Rukmini is placed in a cave. A natural underground water reservoir is situated beneath the Bitthal-Rukmini temple which is used as drinking water. A small dilapidated temple which is having no deity is also in the temple complex. A big Ganesha idol is also placed beside the main temple. There is a holy pond in front of the temple complex where devotees can take a bath performed their puja at the temple. One side of the pond is having 14 small temples with no deities in side. Remains of temples are scattered here and there. Uphill there are 11 caves with water resource. A big stone carved Ganesha is also present here. Two caves are having beautifully designed pillars. Downhill there is a big cave full with knee deep of water and a gigantic Shiva Linga is placed in the middle. On the left side within the cave there is a stone carving of Shiva-Parbati. The wonderful scenic beauty of Harishchandragad will attract everyone where mythology and nature stand side by side.

Pachani village

Birds eye view of  Pachnai

Way to Harishchandragad

Harishchandragad temple

Panchamukhi Shiva at Harishchandragad

Lord Ganesha at Harishchandragad

Holy Pond Harishchandragad

Caves at Harishchandragad

Kedraeswar Shiva at Harishchandragad

Lord Ganesha with Shiva-Parbati